One, favored in Athens and in Izmir (Turkey), featured rice cooked with sauteed onions, bay leaves, currants and pine nuts, then enhanced with saffron, mint, sauteed almonds and sauteed chicken livers. Stavroulakis noted that Greek Jews made fancier saffron pilafs, too. Preparing it this way highlighted saffron's delicate flavor and fragrance. The rice was cooked with olive oil, water, lemon juice and salt, and finished with saffron steeped in water. Jews in Greece made a simpler saffron rice pilaf, according to Nicholas Stavroulakis, author of Cookbook of the Jews of Greece (Cadmus, 1986). The rice is very rich, as it is cooked with meat broth and "oil from a roast," or olive oil left in the pan from roasting veal. (If this is true, the Italians have the Jews to thank for their wonderful saffron-scented dish, risotto milanese.) In Ferrara, Machlin noted, Shabbat saffron rice was regarded as the Jewish food par excellence. Edda Servi Machlin, the author of Classic Italian Jewish Cooking (Ecco, 2005), wrote that saffron is said to have been brought to Italy from Asia Minor by the Jews for their Shabbat rice. Using the world's costliest spice for Shabbat is not only a Persian practice.
Her reply: "Saffron is only for Shabbat!" "Of course," the teenager said, "all Persian girls learn how to cook."īut she suggested I talk to her mother, "the expert." Her mother told me she seasons Persian rice with turmeric. I asked her whether she knew how to prepare it. Several months ago, I was discussing Persian rice with Michelle, an American-born Persian girl, after synagogue services. during the first period, from Sunday to Tuesday, everyone lives in the atmosphere of nostalgia for the Shabbat that had just passed during the second period, from Wednesday to Friday, everyone is waiting for the upcoming Shabbat." This attitude is shared by Jews worldwide. As a child, I often heard stories emphasizing that even the poorest of Jews did their best to make Shabbat festive.Īccording to Martine Chiche Yana, author of La Table Juive (The Jewish Table) published by Edisud, 1990, "Tradition tells us that the six days of the week (not including Shabbat) are divided in two periods. She was following a time-honored custom that Shabbat should be a celebration, a theme that permeates Jewish folklore. 'Let's buy this for Shabbat!" my mother always said when we shopped together and found something special, whether it was an expensive fish, an exotic fruit or fine chocolate.
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